St. Patrick’s Day cupcakes

H&J Harbour & Jones

To Sussex on a Summer’s Day

Tuesday August 11^th 2009

We headed off early to Hastings, the home of the largest beach-launched fishing fleet in Europe. The boats measure no more than ten metres, carry small amounts of gear and travel just a few miles off shore to fish predominantly for Dover sole, mackerel and herring. It is easy to see why Hastings has been awarded certification for well-managed fisheries from the Marine Stewardship Council.

At Rock-a-Nore fisheries, a family-run company selling the freshest of wet, smoked and shellfish, we met Declan who kindly showed us round the beachfront shop which was full of bright-eyed, sparkling fish. Candice eagerly eyed up the plump mackerel that would soon be appearing on her menu at St Paul’s Cathedral and we were all overwhelmed by the wonderful ozone scent of the sea. In the smokery at the back of the shop kippers, mackerel and bloaters are smoked over applewood chips and we were invited to sample the results. The huss, a species that has appeared on fish & chip menus in the area for years, was voted second only to the succulent trout by our posse of chefs.

With most of their fish coming from just three boats that moor up in front of the shop on the Stade, the old Saxon term for “landing place”, we were keen to meet the fishermen. Dean, Jason and their two brothers come from a long line of fishermen who maintain the tradition of going out at night and fishing with nets in the tidal waters up to six miles off the coast. Whilst Jason tended the nets Dean explained that things have not changed much in generations for the families that fish these waters although the use of tractors and diggers has made slightly for an easier life; up until 10 years ago they would have to haul and push the boats in and out of the water by hand!

Our next stop was Northiam and our cherry trees. We were met by farmer Michael Dallaway who, alongside his commercial orchards, devotes one orchard to the “rent a cherry tree” scheme, renowned both locally and nationally, thanks to Henrietta Green and Food Lovers Britain, for helping to preserve the British cherry tree for future generations. Families and foodies alike gather during the season to pick their trees and our Penny trees did us proud yielding us over 30 kilos of these perfectly scented and mouth-watering fruits.

Michael has recently stopped supplying supermarkets and now concentrates on selling his fruit, which is all hand-picked, at farmers’ markets and also at New Spitalfields Market in London. When we asked him why he had decided to move in this direction he explained that the amount of paperwork involved in selling to supermarkets was enormously time-consuming for a small grower and with any slight dimple or other perceived imperfection in the fruit leading it to be rejected, there was also an unacceptable degree of wastage which he doesn’t get selling direct. He told us that he loves meeting the people who are buying his fruit and gets a lot of satisfaction knowing how much they enjoy it.

Stuart our sous chef from the Royal Society pipped the others as chief picker, although Leo, our head chef from IOP most definitely holds the cherrylicious crown having created jams, tatins, fools, black forest gateaux and other treats to promote the British cherry tree over the past few weeks. Before we left, Michael kindly allowed us to pick a nearby Regina tree as we were keen to taste the difference between the varieties and see if our Penny cherries were the best. Laden down with trugs of cherries we decided that the Penny cherries were juicier and more refreshing although the Regina came out tops on sweetness.

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