Oat and raisin biscuits

Oat and raisin biscuits

Market Forces

Tuesday October 3rd 2006

Market Forces

In today’s increasingly homogenised and sanitised retail world, markets offer a welcome glimpse of a different way of shopping. Instead of trudging down fluorescent-lit supermarket aisles pushing a trolley, market shopping involves strolling around stalls, looking to see what’s on offer, listening in on banter and getting a chance to taste things. As with many food lovers, food markets hold a particular appeal for Harbour & Jones proprietor Patrick Harbour who whilst on holiday to Italy this year made sure to visit the markets in Orvieto and Bologna. “We ate our way round, sampling some amazing food. My children think I am like a child in the sweet shop around the food stalls,” confesses Patrick.

London, of course, as a trading centre, has been home to many historic markets over the centuries, such as Smithfield meat market, Billingsgate fish market and Covent Garden, but only Smithfield continues to trade in its historic surroundings while the other markets have relocated. In the City Leadenhall Market, once home to several top-notch fishmongers and butchers, now houses boutiques and chain coffee shops, with only one fishmonger remaining. On the plus side, Borough Market, transformed in just a few years from a declining wholesale fruit-and-veg market into a thriving, gastronomic destination for foodies, demonstrates the appeal of good quality, fresh food sold in atmospheric surroundings. The success of Borough has transformed the neighbourhood, pushing up property prices and making it a very desirable place to be indeed.

All over London, Farmers’ Markets are springing up like mushrooms. At their best, they offer a welcome chance to enjoy locally produced, seasonal food such as crisp English apples, freshly harvested organic vegetables, rare breed meat and free-range poultry. One success story is the highly popular Broadway Market in Hackney, the result of a creative partnership between local residents and traders and Hackney Council. September 2006 saw a newly invented Exmouth Food Market opening in Clerkenwell, drawing on the Broadway Market experience.

The future, however, is not so rosy for many of London’s traditional markets, many of which are under threat from developers. Queen’s Market in Newham, for example, is threatened by disruptive development proposed by Newham Council. The development initially included plans for a large ASDA superstore on the site of the market, though the supermarket chain has since withdrawn following a vigorous campaign against it. Once a traditional English street market, Queen’s Market is today a thriving multi-cultural market reflecting the area’s diversity and offering newcomers a chance to get their foot on the retail ladder. Here is a market where one can find duck eggs and fresh fish sold side-by-side with bargain boxes of Indian mangoes and bunches of coriander. As trader Nick Berry of Queens Market, says “The one thing that is unique in Newham is this market. Markets are delicate organisms and during the development, people’s shopping habits are easily dropped. I challenge you to find any processed food in the market. A large percentage of customers come here because this market makes their money go a long way, getting fresh fruit and veg at affordable prices.”

For Patrick Harbour, the issue is clear “Markets are a very important part of many communities. Local councils and national government alike should be preserving existing markets and realising the scope they offer to enhance neighbourhoods.”

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