Oat and raisin biscuits

Oat and raisin biscuits

Christmas Treats

Monday December 18th 2006

Christmas and New Year are celebrated with feasting and gift-giving. The spending spree that accompanies the season of goodwill can be a vital lifeline for independent food producers and shops. “We spend so much money at Christmas buying food and drink“, points out Harbour and Jones M. D. Patrick Harbour, “This is a great opportunity to support independent shops. By shopping at them we can make such a difference.”

Decent butchers come into their element at this time of year and are worth hunting out as good, carefully-sourced, well-hung meat and poultry provides that extra flavour factor for any festive meal. A number of London’s butchers offer excellent beef, including the Ginger Pig in Marylebone, Godfrey’s in Islington and Lidgate’s in Holland Park. Game is a traditional, seasonal winter food which is currently enjoying something of a revival. Head to vintage butchers Allens of Mayfair or Moens in Clapham to find a great range of furred and feathered game. Butchers such as Wyndham House Poultry at Borough Market are also the place to head for festive poultry, such as free-range turkeys or geese. Order your bird (not forgetting sausagemeat for stuffing, chipolatas and bacon too) from your local butcher and enjoy the whole sociable experience of queuing up to collect it.

Good delicatessens are a great source of delicious foodstuffs, great for gifts or to enjoy at home. Italian delicatessens, such as Soho veterans I Camisa and Lina Stores, are great places to find treats like smartly packaged Italian Christmas cakes panettone and panforte, fresh white truffles, excellent Parma ham and chunks of Parmesan. By Spitalfields, A. Gold’s picturesque deli specialises in fine British foods, ranging from Forman’s superb smoked salmon to sweet little sugar mice.

To stock up your cheeseboard, head to Neals Yard Dairy, specialists in farmhouse British cheeses, from traditional, regional gems such as West Country Cheddar, Colston Bassett Stilton and Kirkham’s Lancashire to contemporary cheeses such as Berkswell or Gubbeen.

If inspiration is flagging, take a trip to Borough Market which sells a truly impressive range of good things to eat. Stalls to look out for here include Spanish food importers Brindisa who offer gutsy chorizo, superior jamon and dangerously more-ish salted almonds, Cool Chile Company with Mexican salsas and chillies ranging from mild to fiery and Borough Cheese Company with its delicious Comte cheese.

For a traditional Hogmanay do, Milroy’s in Soho offers a truly impressive range of Highland single malt whiskies, plus knowledgeable staff to guide you. Another Soho institution is Gerry’s, run with friendliness and expertise and stocking a fantastic range of spirits, including rare rums and flavoured vodkas, with which to celebrate New Year’s Eve in style.

The Ginger Pig, 8-10 Moxon St, W1 (020-7935 7788)

Godfrey’s, 7 Highbury Park, N5 (020-7226 2425)

Lidgate’s, 110 Holland Park Avenue, W11 (020-7727 8243)

Allen & Co., 117 Mount St, W1 (020-7499 5831)

Moen & Sons, 24 The Pavement, SW4 (020-7622 1624)

Wyndham House Poultry, 2-3 Stoney St, SE1 (020-7403 4788)

I Camisa, 61 Old Compton St, W1 (020-7437 7610)

Lina Stores, 18 Brewer St, W1 (020-7437 6482)

A.Gold, 42 Brushfield St, E1 (020-7247 2487) Neal’s Yard Dairy, 17 Shorts Gardens, WC2 (020-7240 5700) and 6, Park St, SE1 (020-7645 3554)

Borough Market, Southwark St, SE1, open Thurs, Fri, Sat each week; Christmas opening times : Dec 20-22, 9am-6pm, Dec 23, 8am-6pm, Sun 24, 9am-3pm, Dec 29, 12noon-6pm, Dec 30, 9am-4pm

Milroy’s, 3 Greek St, W1 (020-7437 9311)

Gerry’s, 74 Old Compton St (020-7734 4215)

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